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Панк. Икона. Активист – смотрим новый фильм о Вивьен Вествуд.

Апрель 26, 2018

В прокат вышел документальный фильм Лорны Такер о британском дизайнере Вивьен Вествуд, которую считают пионером стиля «панк» в мире высокой моды. Сегодня бренду Vivienne Westwood 40 лет, и он продолжает задавать тренды.

Это Вивьен в 80-е годы эпатировала публику рваными и многослойными футболками, шубками из цветных перьев и мятых лоскутов. В ее коллекции были вещи в нетрадиционно яркую клетку и безразмерные платья, расписанные авангардной живописью. Вивьен Вествуд начесывала волосы и красила глаза розовыми тенями, когда это еще не было мейнстримом.

Самоучка Вивьен.

В эпоху Маргарет Тетчер на нее смотрели как на городскую сумасшедшую. А сейчас в мире фэшн-индустрии и в высших кругах про нее говорят: «Творец, в котором уживаются королевская корона и панковская булавка». Вивьен родилась в 1941 году в графстве Чешир. В Лондоне поступила в художественную школу «Трент парк», но оставила ее из-за бедности и замужества. По образованию Вивьен Вествуд — школьный педагог. В начале 70-х годов у нее был роман с лидером группы Sex Pistols Малколмом Маклареном, который продолжался 13 лет. Именно музыкант стал первым финансовым партнером модной империи Вествуд. В 1974 году они открыли магазин одежды с кричащим названием «Секс».

Что значит стиль Westwood?

На создание первой коллекции одежды дизайнера вдохновили уличные молодежные субкультуры Лондона, панк-рок и символика британского флага. Рваная одежда, деним, белье напоказ и массивные кожаные сапоги со множествов ремешков тоже сталии визитной карточкой фирменного стиля. Самыми звездными коллекциями стали: «Пираты» (1981) и «Дикари и бродяги». Примечательно, что сама Вивьен полагает исторический романтизм стержнем ее стиля. Она была без ума от романа Дюма «Три мушкетера» и старинных гравюр, поэтому решила создать коллекцию на стыке прошлого и современности.

Фурор производили модели, в которых обыгрывался портрет королевы Елизаветы II. Так, в 1987 Вивьен на одной из футболок сделала британской королеве пирсинг губы.

Королева не обиделась, а скандальный принт, изобретенный Вествуд, потом копировали другие марки.

«Панк. Икона. Активист» – реакция на фильм.

Лора Такер стала первой, для кого Вествуд распахнула двери своего офиса и дома, чтобы показать, как работает модный дом и дать интервью. Возможно, именно прошлое молодого режиссера так подкупило модельера — в молодости она бродяжничала, работала моделью, а потом стала снимать клипы.

Вивьен Вествуд осталась не очень довольна фильмом, поскольку он вышел нарочито глянцевым и серьезным. «Этот фильм – банальность. А я нет», — отрезала дизайнер. Кроме того, Такер не раскрыла образ Вивьен как правозащитницы и активистки, которую проблемы экологии и продвижение кампании «Climate revolution» зачастую волнуют больше чем мода.

Однако в фильме «Панк. Икона. Активист» есть самостоятельная художественная ценность. Он проливает свет на грани сильной личности Вивьен Вествуд, рассказывает о ее творческом пути и эпатажных жестах. Глянцевое документальное кино.

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