Автопутешествие по Финляндии: Ново-Валаамский монастырь
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Автопутешествие по Финляндии: Ново-Валаамский монастырь

Июль 30, 2015

Сегодня в Финляндии, жители которой в большинстве своем – лютеране, мы все же можем отыскать островки Православия. Один из них – Ново-Валаамский мужской монастырь, расположенный вблизи селения Хейнявеси. Именно он стал достойным преемником богатейшей духовной традиции русской Валаамской обители. Удивительный по своей истории и атмосфере монастырь, окруженный безмолвием и красотой природы, ежегодно привлекает более ста тысяч паломников и туристов.

Неожиданно узнав, что это знаковое для любого православного человека место находится всего в полутора часах спокойной езды на машине от нашей арт-резиденции Art village Rajan Loma, мы поспешили туда. По дороге в Ново-Валаамский монастырь открываются потрясающие виды! Когда позади осталась столица финской Карелии – город Йо́энсуу, хотелось останавливаться каждые пять минут, чтобы фотографировать уникальную природу, озера и водопады, но мы спешили в предвкушении главного!

И вот мы здесь! Первое, что бросилось в глаза, – все идеально подготовлено для туристов и паломников. Огромный магазин сувениров, травяных сборов, чаев и вин, которые готовятся самими монахами. Очень романтичен дегустационный зал, в котором при свечах сидят туристы, видимо, отдыхая после прогулки по обширной территории монастыря. Ресторан славится в округе своей кухней. Печенье здесь готовится только из экологически чистых ингредиентов, по секретному рецепту. А выпекает его вручную 84-летняя служащая монастыря.

Гуляя по окрестностям, мы встретили приветливого русского молодого человека. Он оказался местным волонтером и с удовольствием провел для нас бесплатную экскурсию. Мы узнали много интересного о появлении православного монастыря в Финляндии.

С началом русско-финской войны Валаамский монастырь на Ладожском озере оказался в самом центре военных действий. Требовалось незамедлительно спасать иконы, древнюю библиотеку, колокола и другую церковную утварь. Монахам предложили приобрести имение XIX века «Папинниеми» в восточной Финляндии. Их сомнения развеял мистический случай: на усадьбе бывших хозяев-лютеран нашли православную икону Сергия и Германа Валаамских. С тех пор датой основания Ново- Валаамского монастыря принято считать 1940 год. Труден был путь на новое место. Старались вывезти всю церковную утварь, мебель, иконы. Понемногу монахи обживались, два амбара переоборудовали в первую Преображенскую церковь.

В 1957 году в Ново-Валаамский монастырь прибыли иноки эвакуированного Коневского монастыря, расположенного на острове Коневец, в западной части Ладожского озера. Благодаря им здесь появилась чудотворная Коневская икона, которая была принесена, как известно, в XIV веке с Афона преподобным Арсением Коневским. Перевезенная монахами тайно после приказа советских военных властей покинуть остров, икона стала гордостью Ново-Валаамского монастыря, и именно к ней сейчас едут паломники со всей России. А Коневец после войны почти на 50 лет превратился в закрытый военный полигон. Всё, что осталось в кельях и храмах, было впоследствии разорено.

Сегодня в монастыре живет небольшое число монахов разных национальностей. Часто, особенно летом, сюда приезжают паломники – трудники – и помогают по хозяйству. Богослужения в монастыре совершают по новому григорианскому календарю. В разные годы здесь были возведены каменный Преображенский собор – главный из храмов, церковь Сергия и Германа Валаамских и церковь всех Святых, в Валааме просиявших. А на прибрежной территории у причала расположилась часовня Николая Чудотворца, здесь регулярно проходит утренняя и вечерняя службы. На другом берегу находится монастырское кладбище с часовней Иоанна Предтечи, где похоронены двести монахов и благодетелей монастыря.

В 2012 году монастырь вошел в список лучших туристических объектов страны. Приезжие могут остановиться в одной из гостиниц, здесь работает Культурный центр, который включает библиотеку, архив, конференц-зал и мастерскую. Около с собора расположен Народный университет, где преподаются основы православного богословия, разнообразные практические курсы – иконопись, резьба по дереву и камню, золотое шитье…

Мы провели в монастыре около трех часов, и за это время успели осмотреть все и даже побывать на службе, которая началась в 18.00. С просветленными душами мы вернулись в нашу арт-деревеню, где натопили баньку и до поздней ночи делились с друзьями впечатлениями за ужином, попивая вкуснейшее монастырское вино. Сегодня они не поехали с нами, оставшись удить рыбу. Впрочем, рыбка была, ой, как вкусна! А друзья на следующий день отправились по нашим следам. Рекомендуем и вам последовать их примеру! Приезжайте «перезагрузиться», отдохнуть от городских дел и подлечить свою душу в нашу Art village Rajan Loma! Отсюда рукой подать до всех интересных достопримечательностей восточной Финляндии!

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