Все больше и больше современные дизайнеры обращаются к модным эталонам ушедших эпох, черпают вдохновение в популярных когда-то художественных течениях и стилях. Одним из наиболее ярких стилей 20-го века стал конструктивизм. Считается, что этот авангардистский метод зародился в Советском Союзе. Сегодня многим знаком конструктивизм в архитектуре или живописи, но что представляет собой конструктивизм в искусстве моды?
На этот вопрос попыталась ответить перспективный немецкий дизайнер Александра Кизель, выпустив весенне- летнюю коллекцию в тиле Bauhaus der Kunst и представив ее в Петербурге. Название "Модный конструктор" — определение направления бренда KIESEL — говорит само за себя.Показ KIESEL, прошедший в субботу, 8 декабря – первый международный выход госпожи Кизель, и выбор российского подиума для дебюта пришелся очень кстати во время года Германии в России. В модном пространстве Германии Александра вовсе не новичок: несколько лет назад она закончила Высшую художественную школу Берлин-Вайсензее, работала дизайнером для фильмов "Чтец", "Комплекс Баадера-Майнхоф" и других.
Как и следовало ожидать, команда из Германии выбрала для шоу памятник архитектурного конструктивизма – заброшенный завод "Красное знамя". Однако, не в обиду организаторам, столь метко выбранное место откровенно не порадовало реализацией. "Заведение", уже несколько лет позиционирующее себя как культурный центр, совершенно не приспособлено для нахождения в нем людей, по крайней мере, зимой. Но дело не только в этом: полуразрушенное промышленное здание совершенно не облюбовано хозяевами, и до арт-пространства ему еще далеко. Тем не менее, шоу бренда KIESEL вписалось в обстановку на сто процентов.
Надо сказать, что помимо оригинальной постановки – под любимую берлинцами музыку техно неподвижные модели выезжали на подиум, будто с конвейера, а затем все были завернуты в пленку бесстрастными рабочими в синих комбинезонах (см. видео) – порадовало и участие в ней самого дизайнера. Задумка многослойная: лейтмотив — промышленное искусство, что и являет собой конструктивизм, также присутствует актуальная тема массового, "конвейерного" производства одежды, против которого выступает сам дизайнер. На коллекцию, которая буквально составлена из прямых линий, лаконичных форм и максимально простых, но заметных цветовых сочетаний, Александру вдохновили работы авангардиста Степановой — об этом и многом другом дизайнер поделился во время интервью. Резкие силуэты и удобные фасоны платьев, брюк, юбок и пиджаков, без сомнения, понравятся тем, кто не любит вычурности в гардеробе. Однако, при всей кажущейся простоте, образ от KIESEL оригинален и заметен среди других.
Несомненно, Александра Кизель, как победительница конкурса"Дизайнер будущего" понимает, как развиваются модные тенденции. По ее мнению, в
моде нет ничего нового, все возвращается, просто в новом обличье, трансформировавшись согласно требованиям времени. И с этим трудно не согласиться. Сама идея конструктивизма отвечает одной из главных тенденций современной моды – функциональности. Взамен массовому производству Кизель предлагает модульный принцип, сочетающий в себе финансовую доступность и индивидуальный подход к одежде.
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