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Две стороны одной медали. Африка

Июль 12, 2012

Совсем недавно мне посчастливилось пожить в совсем другом мире, который буквально за пару дней смог стать  для меня домом. Я жила в Африке, во втором по величине городе Танзании — Мванза. Но не совсем в нём, а в особом районе Суэа (Suea), что на берегу озера Виктория. В двух часах езды находится известнейший заповедник Африки — Нгоронгоро. Однако, моя жизнь была совсем не туристической и мне удалось на какое-то время стать местной.На сколько это возможно для белого человека, разумеется. Африка и мое окружение там, подарили мне внутреннее, не проходящее по сей день, удивительное ощущение гармонии и научили с юмором относится к жизни.

Нам привычно слышать об ужасах Африки: ураганы, наводнения, малярия, необразованность, бедность, но почти никогда не говорится о красочности пейзажей, добродушности людей, их простых, но глубоких мыслях и мечтах. По-моему, там всё сохранилось словно в заповеднике и природа, и животные, и люди. А первым услышанным, и в дальнейшем сопровождающим меня словом, было  «Hujambo», что означает на суахили «Мир тебе и уважение». Здесь принято употреблять его при встрече, вместо обычного «Привет!».  

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Безусловно, превалирующее большинство людей ведёт здесь самую настоящую «simple life». Но никто из них не предъявляют счета Богу за свое рождение бедным и почти каждый готов поделился тем немногим, что у него есть. Так мало для жизни городского интеллигента?

Я приехала сюда в сезон дождей и помню собственное удивление, когда утром проснулась и не увидела в доме стекол, на окнах были только решетки. За окном шел дождь и капли были слышны прямо в комнате,не попадая внутрь. Каждый день я ловила себя на странном чувстве «я здесь своя». Самое настоящее мауглевское : «Мы с тобой одной крови». Это ощущение ежедневно укореняло второе запомнившееся выражение — «Nipe tanu», что значит «Дай мне пять». С подобной альтернативой рукопожатию, когда встречающиеся просто прикасаются друг к другу  кулаками, я сталкивалась день ото дня. Позже мне рассказали, что этим демонстрируется твоя открытость и уважение к другому человеку.

Лишь побывав в Африке, я поняла весь ужас националистических движений и лозунгов: «Россия для русских». Думаю, этих кричащих ребят стоило бы куда-нибудь подальше отправить путешествовать, притом одних. Вот тогда бы они поняли слово толерантность на кожном уровне.

Мой дом назывался «Упако хостел», здесь никогда не закрывались двери, а во дворе стоял старый, давно уже откатавший свои километры красный мотоцикл. Я Мзунгу* (на языке суахили — "белый человек") и восемь африканских ребят составляли цельную бытовую картину: кто-то покупал продукты, у кого-то была посуда, третий обладал ценнейшим моющими  средством. Мною считывалось в их глазах чувство стыда за свою бедность…Сама же в их глазах со своей белой кожей и длинными волосами смотрелась словно жена доктора, спасающего их детей от холеры

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Я очень полюбила ребят. Когда вечером приходила уставшей домой,  иногда теряясь по пути, они встречали меня и начинали делиться своими новостями, часто готовили для меня африканскую еду со странными названиями: « Угали» (похожа не безвкусную манку), «Пилау» (традиционный серый рис) и, конечно, неведомые мне овощи, напоминающие на вид бутоны тюльпанов.Удивительно, но пальчики оближешь!

Имя Ольга производило неизгладимое впечатление. Они просили меня его написать, смеялись и говорили, что у меня очень сложное имя. Будто для меня их Масага, Матага и Кимимули были просты для запоминания! Затем, засыпая, я не знала, где проснусь, у себя дома в кровати или снова в кино, где по крышам бегают мартышки, лысые африканские женщины вокруг (никогда не думала, что их волосы это на самом деле парики!), а меньше пяти детей в семье воспринимается как отсутствие любви в человеке. Кино да и только!

Люди вокруг не пили и не курили. В магазинах по всей Африке есть только 3 бренда сигарет, которые вдобавок продаются поштучно. Алкоголя вообще не встречала, хотя часто слышала о загадочном африканском спирте местного производства. С другой стороны, часто по вечерам, когда я сидела сытая в тепле, за окнами раздавались гудки. Значит кому-то очень плохо, к нему едут из госпиталя…

Один из самых запомнившихся вечеров был «День Благодарения». Я увидела настоящие африканские танцы. Музыка "первобытных ритмов" в сопровождении неведомых мне разновидностей барабанов. На суахили есть интересное выражение, которое означает "отпусти свое тело на волю". Пусть руки, ноги и другие части тела ведут тебя сами под музыку. Настоящая импровизация, а не танец!

Как я уже писала ранее, беднота, необразованность, желтая лихорадка, малярия, беспризорные дети, ВИЧ – всего этого с лихвой хватает в Африке.Однако, снова и снова готова повторять: " это лишь односторонний взгляд на медаль". Почему журналисты не пишут об их повышенной чувствительности к окружающему миру и открытости, которых так не хватает развитым странам? Нами, европейцами, что-то безвозвратно утрачено в 21 веке. То, что еще сохранилось здесь, на так грубо называемом «черном континенте». Люди проживают выражение «Hakuna Matata», а не думают, что это прекрасная  фраза из «Короля Льва». Меня, как современную и цивилизованную девушку, до глубины сердца поражала их забота друг о друге, ценность семейных отношений, знание своих корней и искренняя вера в Бога.

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Свет в Африке выключается по расписанию. Однажды, когда его не стало совсем неожиданно для нас, то мои соседки из «Упако» стали распевать в темноте католические молитвы и зажгли на полу свечи. Им не нужен был свет, они сумели забыть о нем, чего нельзя сказать о сместных приметах и традициях. Ребята оказались на редкость суеверны. По природным явлениям и поведению животных они предсказывали  ближайшее будущее.Например, если  кошка мяукает человеческим голосом или если в дом заглядывает определенный вид ящерицы, или птица издает протяжные звуки — не к добру!

Жизнь в Африке разная. Но, если ты здесь побывал, то это не пройдёт для тебя бесследно. Лишь спустя время приходишь в себя и понимаешь, что частичка тебя не сможет покинуть её никогда. Я очень люблю Африку и советую задумываться, когда вас пытаются ей запугать…)

Ольга Ожиганова

 

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